The Custom Collection: Flannel Jacket

This week, after much blood, sweat and tears, we launched our long awaited Custom Collection and, I am very happy to say that it has thus far, been very well received.

The reasons behind our creating such a collection of informal tailored garments was partly in response to an increasing number of our patrons who no longer require five suits for the working week, but instead had need of the dreaded business casual; this increasingly common uniform of jackets, slacks, open neck shirts and chinos or jeans has left many, including myself, out in the cold, as achieving the effortless elegance that we are afforded by our bespoke suits, suddenly seemed unattainable.

The other reason would be, aside my penchant for fine tailoring and the best of British cloths, I am a glutton for a challenge and, so, I set about making each and every one of the garments which our patrons were inquiring after, naturally; so as to walk the walk, as it were and not just talk the talk you understand..

Now, if ever there was an essential wardrobe staple that cannot really be substituted, it is surely the jacket or blazer; names which are oft’ misappropriated and which cause some confusion, so what we have set out to do is create a blazer in the traditional sense but one which can be worn as a jacket and vice versa.

Traditionally, blazers are made of a navy blue, robust cloth up to 16oz from mills like H. Lesser and are used by clubs or schools and colleges, featuring their insignia on a patch-breast pocket and brass naval-buttons. They are quite formal in their appearance and often worn with grey flannel or worsted trousers, check, chambray or Oxford shirts and club neck ties. The jacket, on the other hand, is often less formal, more tailored and worn with chinos and jeans.

We wanted our blazers and jackets to be interchangeable by incorporating all of the best features from each of these sartorial stalwarts, as follows;

Cloth

While we have created a blue blazer for year-round use, this seasons flannel jacket is made from a 14oz ‘Wellington’ check from Fox Brothers in Wellington, Somerset. It is as soft, warm and luxurious as it is hardwearing and versatile.

Hidden Third Button

For those who appreciate the security of a third-button fastening on the front of their coat, or indeed the security of a waistcoat or double breasted coat, but prefer the silhouette afforded them by the fulcrum of a two-button jacket, the Custom Collection blazers and jacket feature a third button concealed behind the roll of the lapel

Patch ‘Pint’ Pockets

If you have ever fancied a cheeky smoke outside a venue that will not allow you carry your tipple over the threshold, then the patch pint pocket, commonly known as the patch pocket, is for you. Each hip pocket will carry a pint of your favourite ale and allow you passage to your smoking area of choice. The patch pocket is also extremely useful for keeping one’s hands warm and carrying a multitude of accoutrements and includes a coin catcher, come cigar lighter pocket inside the right hip pocket, which means you can carry your sunglasses in the bottom of the pocket without fear of scratching the lenses; genius! Also features a patch-breast pocket for carrying one’s spectacles and pocket square.

Surgeon’s Cuffs

For those who enjoy rolling up their sleeves to do the washing up as they arrive home of an evening, or simply enjoy the functionality of a working cuff, all of our blazers and jackets feature working cuffs.

Full Canvas

If you have ever admired the roll of another man’s lapel, one which appears fuller and more exaggerated and looks good enough to surf; it is owing in part to a full canvas being used inside the jacket. The canvas gives shape to the front of a coat and was traditionally fashioned from horse hair. Brown in Town offer three types of canvassing; Floating Canvas (or fused), most commonly used in off-the-peg and made-to-measure. Half Canvas (whereby the canvas culminates below the ribs) and full canvas, which we liken to one wearing their coat as opposed one’s coat wearing them, which is stitched into place from shoulder to hem and continues into the lapel; which is what gives the lapel it’s natural and voluminous roll. Those who have appreciated our Renaissance Finish of full canvas, handstitched button holes and real horn, leather or Corozo buttons will feel quite at home with our Custom Collection jacket and blazers. Those wanting to go the whole hog and raise the bar of their full renaissance finish will be happy to learn that Brown in Town can canvas their coat in horse hair, should they so desire.

Single Vent

An invention for the hacking-jacket, whereby to avoid your riding coat bunching up around your haunches, the single vent allowed you coat to fall either side of your seat and thighs. Whereas the double vent is traditionally associated with the suit; the vent sits-up as you sit down, so’s it will crease less when one is seated, the single vent is more relaxed and, sporting, if you will. The single vent also narrows the hips, thus elongating one’s frame.

In short, what we have created is a jacket that is incredibly easy to wear, is functional and one which I am as comfortable wearing as I am my suits. And that is saying something..