The Order Of Things
From time to time, I am asked what is the process involved when having a suit made at Brown in Town. So I thought it might be useful to share exactly how it is we do what we do, beginning with the appointment process and gradually paint a picture of what is entailed when having a suit made – the order of things, if you will.
More often than not, we receive enquiries from those that have been referred by one of our patrons. This is always greatly appreciated because not only does it mean that we have come highly recommended by someone who knows the customer better than we do but, moreover, that one of our patrons has seen fit to recommend our services – way back when, this was the only way that you met your tailor – by being introduced. These days, there is the internet, social media and printed media, of which I am still a huge fan.
We also receive enquiries from people that have been referred to us by those we have never met, for example those who may have seen me about Bangshanky, the salon on Colston St. in Bristol under which my studio is located. This is, of course, incredibly flattering. I am of course aware that a reputation can precede you, but I still find it a little disconcerting.
Invariably, those that have chanced upon us and have not used our services before are either inspired by our house-style i.e. the cut of our jib, or the designs of our suits which they have seen, or, by the ethos of Brown in Town itself – which may or may not be the same thing.
So, how do we go about making someone a suit. Well, depending on any ‘time constraints’, we invite our customers to come and discuss their sartorial requirements with us in the first instance, in order that we can paint a picture of what it is that is required, or desired. Then, and only then, can we make suggestions with regard cut, design, cloth and construction – the four key elements required to make a suit, or any other garment for that matter, be it an overcoat, separates i.e. jackets and slacks, or a shirt.
During the initial consultation, it is likely that we will ascertain what is the preferred cut of one’s jib i.e. the fit of one’s suit, the cloth; it’s colour, it’s pattern, it’s weight, it’s finish and it’s handle, also the suit’s design i.e. two pieces or three pieces, double breasted or single breasted, straight or angled pockets, type of buttons etc. The method of making the suit that is required i.e. whether it will be made-to-measure, semi-bespoke or fully bespoke and also whether the customer wants their coat, or indeed their waistcoat, to be fully canvassedor half canvassed.
Once we are abreast of this information, we are able to provide the customer with a detailed breakdown of costs. Some of our customers will decide on the spot if they would like to go ahead and will commission us then and there. Others, particularly grooms, who might like to seek the counsel of their betrothed, may prefer to discuss the details provided in the comfort of their own home and then let us know in due course if we are to press ahead. At this time, we will make a further appointment to take their measurements.
Of course, if time is of the essence, then we are more than happy to wax sartorial, agree the design, the cloth and the construction and then take measurements during the same appointment. This can take several hours or be all said and done within an hour, if the customer knows exactly what they want, or, they are happy to be guided. They must also be able to stand rooted to the spot whilst I whirr-around them with a tape measure!
So, broadly, that is the appointment process in a nutshell. Book your appointment with us at a time that is mutually convenient – including evenings. Bring your ideas, wants and desires to the table and feel free to spend as long as you’d like discussing your sartorial requirements – this can take place over more than one appointment.
Once a decision has been reached with regards all details pertaining to the making of a suit, we will then arrange a mutually convenient time to take measurements. This can take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. Once we have taken measurements, we request a deposit of 50% of the total cost in order to commence works. This enables us to place an order for the chosen cloth and materials with the mill or cloth merchant.
In fact the term bespoke comes from the word bespoken, which is the process of asking your tailor to earmark the cloth of your choice for use in making your suit and is the beginning of the tailoring process: The Order of Things.
If you’d like to make an enquiry, please find our contact details here.